Bollywood Actress Amy, and the Culinary Tour Continues...

So, after vowing to go to bed early last night and wake up early today to try and combat my jetlag (which I've now passed onto Jack, by forcing him into my weird jet-lagged sleep schedule), we were up far too late, and overslept our alarm set very responsibly for 9:30am. We awoke at 11:30, so I bowed out of breakfast and got started on a shower before we headed out. I'm enjoying our big marble shower as much as I can, because once we're in Goa and Kerala (which I learned is pronounced "KER-uh-luh"- oops), the luxe showers will be few and far between.

We set out to the area in front of the Gateway to India (a big arc-de-Triomphe sort of structure built for the Queen during colonial rule), where the tour touts hang out. We were hoping to take the ferry to Elefanta Island and have a gander at the carvings in the caves, but no such luck- the Navy was performing some exercises. We were sidelined by a nice fellow with wretched teeth offering us a tour of Mumbai in an AC taxi with an English speaking guide. After some questioning, and failed attempts at haggling (by Jack), we decided to take the tour- this is my last full day in Mumbai, and the tour gave us a chance to see "the sights;" the more traditional, picturesque parts of Mumbai, as well as some others.

It ended up being a lovely tour, which Jack insists I enjoyed mostly because the guide took a shine to me immediately, told me I look just like a Bollywood actress, and proceeded to herald my beauty every two minutes with lots of lovely compliments, telling me, "I see many foreign women, but some, some are big, some are fat, you know, big like this, some have red face, red skin... You are special foreigner, so pretty!" And he managed to do this without coming off as a creepy local at all. He was actually a really lovely fellow and also showed us the path of the terrorists in the attacks, and where the lone survivor is being held (and tortured, and beaten, and...?) He took the only pictures we have of the two of us in front of all sorts of sights, beautiful old ornate buildings, etc.

Highlights (for me): Seeing the Jain temple, which was splashed with color, painted floor to ceiling, and had some rather ornate silver doors, as well as lots of little shrines to Lord Mahavira (or something like that), the founder of Jainism. Jainism sounds rather sweet, as followers make every effort to not harm any living thing. The priests carry a soft broom to sweep ants out of their path to prevent stepping on them. When Jack was in Delhi, he visited a Jain temple with a bird hospital for injured pigeons. In a country of over 1 billion where the vast majority are starving or devastatingly poor, why they would focus their energies on pigeons is a little beyond me, but I suppose if you are committed to preserving all life, pigeons are as worthy as any.

Also, we went to the dhobi ghats today. I had actually read about them in my book on the way over, so was very keen to see them firsthand. The dhobi ghats are where the entirety of Mumbai (well, those who do not have it done professionally or by machine) sends their laundry for washing. Five thousand people live in the ghat (a flat topped area), which has a network that somehow brings water in for washing and drains the water back out when done. The laundry is all mixed together and sorted by color- somehow, it gets back to its rightful owner, though it's beyond me how that could be. The people live and work inside the ghat. A really interesting glimpse into a very unique part of Indian life. And, my very favorite part of the tour happened here- little kids running up, smiling and gesturing for a "photo," and then giggling and crowding around the camera to see their faces. They were so cute. Silly, giggling, elbowing eachother to get a better peek. I've got a few of them, and a few of myself with them. They ran after us on the way out, shouting "bye-bye!" I do so love how kids everywhere are so much the same- silly, playful, giggly. I wish I had more time here and a chance to do some volunteer work, because I am falling in love with the kids I see.

Speaking of that, Melissa, I've noticed a fashion trend around here for babies that you could try on Charlotte- heavy black eyeliner all the way round the eyes! Can you imagine getting her to sit with her little head still long enough to get that on? It's hard enough to wipe her face with a napkin! I don't know how the moms here manage it. They do dress some of the babies quite elaborately- little saris, bindis, gold jewelry, eyeliner, etc. I guess it's the Indian equivalent of dressing girls in little pink pinafores.

We ate at a little place in the guidebook today, Laxmi Villas, and had a veritable feast. I was begging Jack to go out for naan until midnight last night, as I was having quite the hankering, but the restaurants were all closed, so we made up for it today. Lunch was: Masala dosa (huuuuge thin crepe, about [I kid you not] 14 inches long, stuffed with spiced potatoes and onions), thali (a mixed plate of Indian dishes, with about a cup of four different foods, a roti in the middle, and rice pudding for dessert), and a coconut uttapam (a savory pancake made with rice, coconut, onion, and coriander). It was all delicious, and I intend to enjoy the famous Goan cuisine just as much when we get there tomorrow night.

So, tonight it'll likely be a quiet New Year's Eve, as the attacks have mellowed everyone a bit, and then it's train to Goa at 6am tomorrow. Will write from Goa... Love you all!